Tourists often walk right past one of the greatest sights of the city, seemingly buried in the courtyard connected to the vast former prison known as La Conciergerie.
Millions visit Notre Dame Cathedral only 2 blocks away, and their tour guides never tell them about Sainte Chapelle, called by the Michelin Green Guide: " . . . a Gothic marvel – the deep glow of its windows is one of the great joys of a visit to Paris." Michelin gives this site its highest rating – three stars. It ought to be four.
I've sent dozens of friends there and they are always astonished, first that nobody told them about the Sainte Chapelle, and second how truly marvelous it is.
Built in 33 months – fantastically fast for the time – the chapel was consecrated in 1248 by King Louis IX to house the supposedly original Crown of Thorns he ransomed from the Venetians. The upper chapel is a bejeweled glass house, surrounded by nearly 7,000 square feet of glorious 50 ft. high stained glass windows. The stone pillars are so slender they disappear into the panorama – no buttresses shore up these walls, which despite their delicate construction have not shown a crack in 7 centuries. Of 1,134 scenes, mostly from the old and new testament, 720 are original. This unparalleled masterpiece has survived everything from various bloodthirsty mobs to the French Revolution to two world wars.
The slender spire soars nearly 250 feet, but the lead-covered roof has been rebuilt 3 times, the last after a fire in 1854. You enter through the lower chapel, pretty impressive, but just an appetizer. A spiral staircase leads you to the shimmering splendor of the upper chapel, a fabulous vision that surrounds you in a dazzling kaleidoscope of colors, bold and subtle, whether lit by sunlight or the even tones of a Paris gray sky.
I've been there half a dozen times and I'm always startled as I emerge into the jewel box chapel. Sometimes I dutifully begin to check the individual windows, tracing biblical scenes. Usually I don't get very far. I seat myself (if there's space available around the perimeter), or just stand there and gape. The overall effect is hypnotic – sometimes dizzying.
For delicate, yet dazzling beauty, there is no sight in Paris – perhaps none anywhere – that exceeds the Sainte Chapelle.
HOW TO GET TO THE STE CHAPELLE
Cross the bridge called the Pont au Change (from the Left Bank) onto the Ile de Cite, the largest of the islands in the middle of the Seine. Follow the Blvd. De Palais – named for the Palace of Justice, also part of the vast agglomeration that includes the Conciergerie, until you reach the iron gates in the middle of the block. Signs are posted, but if not, ask one of the guards. Yes, the Conciergerie means caretaker's lodge, named for the part of the old palace controlled by a very important person – the concierge, the keeper of the king's mansion. Now it’s a guy (or gal) who helps you with theatre tickets or footwarmers.
You may not want to remember that Marie-Antoinette, Charlotte Corday (who stabbed Marat), Madame Du Barry, the great scientist Lavoisier, Danton, Robespierre and an army of others were lodged here on their way to the guillotine.
Open daily April – September: 9:30 AM – 6:30 PM; October – March: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM. Closed, Jan 1, May 1, Nov 11, Dec 25. Similar times for the Conciergerie and the Palais de Justice.
